Red Light Therapy: Skincare Superhero Or Beauty Bust?

What is red light therapy?

Photobiomodulation uses light emitted by low-level lasers or light-emitting diodes (LEDs). Red light therapy uses (you guessed it) red light. It is thought to exert its effects by acting on light-sensitive molecules – for example, cytochrome C oxidase in mitochondria, the “powerhouse of the cell”. However, we don’t really know all that much about the cellular effects of red light therapy yet, and acting on one cellular pathway does not guarantee the promised noticeable effects in practice.

It’s been promoted as a treatment for muscle repair and pain relief, but it’s perhaps most well-known for its use in attempts to tackle a whole bunch of skin concerns, from signs of aging, hair loss, and stretch marks to scars and acne – we’re going to focus on the latter.

Some people might receive red light therapy for their skin in a dermatologist’s office, but there are also at-home devices available, like masks and wands.

Does red light therapy work?

We should start by saying that some at-home devices are FDA-cleared for marketing for wrinkles and inflammatory acne, primarily the freaky masks. While this does mean that they’ve been assessed to be of low risk to the public, this doesn’t indicate whether they are or aren’t effective – rather, the manufacturer has had to demonstrate that their red-light product is similar to an existing cleared or approved product.

You can receive photobiomodulation either in a clinical setting administered by a trained professional, or at home. Many at-home devices use LEDs, which are cheaper and don’t require the knowledge of laser safety that laser devices require.

Acne

According to a 2024 review, however, there aren’t all that many clinical trials that have investigated the effectiveness of using LEDs for photobiomodulation for acne (which can also include blue light) – although they do note that “it can be inferred that the effectiveness of LED light treatment in acne is moderate for inflammatory lesions, and its role would be limited to isolated treatments or in combination for moderate forms of acne or those not eligible for medical treatments.”

A 2021 review examined 13 randomized controlled trials, involving a total of 422 participants, in which red light therapy was used for moderate to severe acne. It found that overall, there was no significant difference in the average number of acne lesions (both inflammatory and non-inflammatory) after receiving red light therapy, nor was it any more or less effective than existing conventional treatments.

However, that doesn’t necessarily mean that red light therapy couldn’t work for acne. As the authors of the review point out, the studies included have a lot of variation; they had different sample sizes and treatment times, and some combined red light with other therapies. Even the overall sample size is pretty small. 

All of this makes it difficult to put weight into the findings – the authors write that “the result of this study needs to be interpreted with caution.” In other words, there’s not really enough high-quality evidence to make any hard and fast conclusions about red light therapy and acne either way.

Skin aging

Let’s not beat around the bush; while the previously mentioned 2024 review of clinical trials using photobiomodulation highlighted a number that found it reduced signs of skin aging (using red light, near-infrared, and amber light, which is close to red), there’s not yet enough evidence either way to really make it worth dropping your hard-earned cash on an at-home mask. there’s not yet enough evidence either way to really make it worth dropping your hard-earned cash on an at-home mask. 

As with the research on photobiomodulation and acne, the studies have significant differences in things like study design and treatment protocol, as well as most having small sample sizes.

Nonetheless, some studies have made pretty bold claims, like one published in 2023 that suggested that the use of the Dior Skin Light – a red light mask produced in collaboration with LED tech company Lucibel – led to “observable but also measurable” reversal of signs of skin aging.

These measurements included the depth of crow’s feet and the firmness, elasticity, and smoothness of the skin, as well as the evenness of the complexion and density of the dermis. The latter is the layer of the skin where collagen – which provides structural support to our skin and is produced to a lesser extent as we age – is found.

The study required 20 healthy participants to use the mask for 12 minutes, twice a week for three months, while otherwise continuing their usual skincare routine. After just one month, the authors report that there were significant improvements in crow’s feet, dermal density, and cheek roughness, among other measurements – and these apparently lasted up to one month after the use of the mask stopped.

However, there are a number of issues with this study. Primarily, there’s the sample used; it was small, 15 of the 20 participants were women, and all were Caucasian. As such, the results aren’t generalizable to the wider population – we don’t know if the same effects would be seen in people with different skin tones, for example. It’s also important to note here that one of the study’s authors is the CEO of the Lucibel Group and another is a consultant for Lucibel Group, which could be seen as a conflict of interest.

Is red light therapy safe?

Regardless of whether it does or doesn’t do what people claim, it’s important to know whether red light therapy is safe or not. For short-term use, the American Academy of Dermatology Association says that it appears to be so, though the long-term picture is less clear due to a lack of research.

Even if using an FDA-cleared device – which means that it’s been assessed to be low risk – as directed, people might still get mild side effects, such as skin irritation. A 2019 study encompassing two clinical trials also found that side effects might also be more likely in people with darker skin tones, and it’s also worth noting that some skin conditions and medications can make you more sensitive to light.

As such, it’s recommended to see a board-certified dermatologist before beginning any kind of photobiomodulation, whether that be in the doctor’s office or at home. These treatments aren’t always cheap – so it’s a good idea to make sure that they’re right for you.

The content of this article is not intended to be a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of qualified health providers with questions you may have regarding medical conditions.

All “explainer” articles are confirmed by fact checkers to be correct at time of publishing. Text, images, and links may be edited, removed, or added to at a later date to keep information current.